an Agnes trio

I've been thinking about my clothing choices a lot this year and came to the conclusion that I wear a lot of jersey so it would make sense to try my hand at sewing basic jersey tops. Enter Tilly and the Buttons' Agnes pattern!

I doubt I'll ever sew the other variation with the ruched sleeves as my "moulders" (man shoulders) do not need accentuating, but the plain neckline and sleeves are very much my style. For my first attempt I went with the long sleeves using a gold-mustard and ivory stripe jersey I purchased from Girl Charlee.


Initial pattern alterations were lengthening the body and sleeves by an inch and grading from a size 4 at the shoulders and bust down to a 3 for the waist and hips. Construction wise I mostly used my sewing machine with a ball point needle and my new walking foot (such a great investment!) and my overlocker for finishing edges.

For the hems and neckline I used a zig zag stitch thinking it would look funky with the stripes and contrasting stripe neckband. Unfortunately I'm not a fan of it. I have no real reasons why, just personal taste I guess.

Somewhat stupidly I didn't consider the stretch percentage of my jersey before cutting out my pattern so this top ended up on the snug side. I gave myself as much extra space as possible by sewing the sleeves and side seams with a 1/4 inch seam allowance. It's not unwearable by any means, but tighter than I normally prefer. It's also a little bit see through but fine for wearing underneath pinafores, dungarees or wooly jumpers.

For version two in the same fabric I cut out the shorter, elbow length sleeves and made further fitting alterations. I lowered the armhole by 1/4 inch, extended the side seam at the armhole by 1/4 inch, added 1/2 inch to each side of the sleeve at the top (to match the armhole adjustments), used 1/4 inch seam allowance again on the sleeves and side seams and redrew the side seams to be an inch wider at the waist. Although the first top hugs my shape beautifully I think I prefer a less curvy cut for my t-shirts.


I also cut a plain neck band and used my twin needle for hems. I much prefer the look, fit and finish of this top. Scooping out the armhole gives a much more comfortable fit around the armpit and upper arm. I also absolutely love the elbow length sleeves - it adds a touch of elegance to a basic t-shirt. I always feel a bit "busting out the guns" in a traditional cap sleeve so it's welcome change to feel like I have elegant arms!



By cutting all my seam allowances down to 1/4" I juuuust managed to squeeze my Agnes pattern pieces onto the dissembled Coco, although I had to sacrifice some length. My only other pattern alteration was tapering up to a 5/8 inch seam allowance around the armhole and bust. This fabric is stretchier than the Girl Charlee jersey which resulted in a lot of fabric folds under the armpit when I initially tried it on. Raising the armhole and slimming down the bust area definitely reduced a lot of the wrinkling.


Now I have a much more wearable top! It's really soft and cosy as it's a heavier weight jersey and the extra stretch content means I have a better fit across the shoulders. I think it'll get much more wear as an Agnes than a Coco.


I thought I might find sewing basic, jersey t-shirts a bit dull but I actually really enjoyed the process. There's something rather satisfying about attaching and topstitching a jersey neckband. I also absolutely LOVE how forgiving jersey is when it comes to fitting. I was all ready to progress onto a Kitschy Coo Lady Skater dress however it has been temporarily shelved in favour of something more festive. I wasn't planning on making a Christmas dress this year but a festive fabric called to me...