Yay I've finally made a summer dress..... at the end of summer. I'm smart like that.
And yay it matches my door and wallpaper!
This is a By Hand London Kim dress, the second variation with the sweetheart neckline, full gathered skirt and pintucks. I originally planned to make it with a different fabric, but had a sudden change of heart and was left a bit stumped. My mum then reminded me of the 1970s duvet cover I bought last summer and a new idea formed: summery duvet dress!
I am still stunned that I only had to make two bodice toiles. It was almost disconcerting to fit something so quickly. I think I've discovered that I get a much better fit for my upper body if I just cut the size which matches my full bust measurement as opposed to the recommended waist or high bust measurement and then having to make bust and shoulder adjustments on top of my back alterations etc. It saves a hell of a lot of adjusting.
I am still stunned that I only had to make two bodice toiles. It was almost disconcerting to fit something so quickly. I think I've discovered that I get a much better fit for my upper body if I just cut the size which matches my full bust measurement as opposed to the recommended waist or high bust measurement and then having to make bust and shoulder adjustments on top of my back alterations etc. It saves a hell of a lot of adjusting.
Sneaky pockets!
The only problem is that my waist (and hips) definitely fall in a smaller sizing category. There's a fair amount of ease around my waist in this dress, which is nice and comfortable for a summer day, but I might try grading down a size at the waist with the next version. It wasn't until I attached the skirt that the extra ease became obvious. It can easily be cinched in with a thin belt though if I fancy.
Now for the list of alterations. I cut a size 14 and made the following adjustments:
- 1 inch (overall) removed from the back, following BHL's useful gapey back tutorial.
- 1/2 inch sway back adjustment, also following a BHL tutorial (thank goodness for sewalongs!)
- 1/2 inch added to bodice length
- raising the neckline by sewing with a 3/8 inch seam allowance as I felt it was bordering on too low cut for my tastes.
- adding in seam pockets, borrowed from Christine Haynes' Emery dress pattern. They're sewn into the waistline which I like as it stops the pocket bags from flapping about.
- using a regular zip instead of an invisible zip, as it was a good colour match.
Regular readers of my sewing adventures may have noticed, and consequently fallen off their chairs, that I didn't add a skirt lining. I wanted this to be a breezy, summer dress for bare legs so decided against one. Interestingly, I have since discovered that I can wear tights with this dress as the fabric doesn't cling at all. Now that's what I can a win! I'm wondering if it's because the fabric is polycotton rather than 100% cotton(?)
Tidy dress insides! I had enough duvet fabric to use it for the bodice lining.
Although there was nothing particularly complicated about the construction of the dress I had to unpick a fair amount of duff sewing. The zip, for example, did not want to comply. I usually have no problems inserting ordinary zips, but I think this took me 3 attempts. Not my neatest zip insertion, but it's there and it's functional. I don't see my back so it's fine.
I also had some problems turning out the inner scoop of the neckline, at the top of the princess seams. The fabric kept pulling and I struggled to make it sit smoothly. The folded over seams are a bit bulky, which I'm guessing were part of the problem, so I might press them open next time. I'm delighted with my pattern placement at the front though, I gave myself an armpit flower. It amuses me way more than it should.
I also love that I managed to place large flowers exactly where the side seam pockets sit, completely by accident. Big pocket flowers!
Another positive: pintucks! I've never sewn them before and found them immensely satisfying to make. They're so crisp. Now I want to sew pintucks on ALL THE THINGS! It's a lovely, subtle detail to add to a garment.
The fullness of the skirt is great fun too. It's very swooshy and great for twirling, always a good indicator of clothing success. The lighter weight of the fabric suits the style perfectly. If it was any heavier I think I would find it too bulky.
So all in all I'm very happy with my dress. It feels soft and comfortable to wear, fits pretty well and cost very little to make as the duvet cover was only £3 or £4. I'll leave you with a silly twirling photo. I'm ever so graceful.
So all in all I'm very happy with my dress. It feels soft and comfortable to wear, fits pretty well and cost very little to make as the duvet cover was only £3 or £4. I'll leave you with a silly twirling photo. I'm ever so graceful.
Haha I look like a bell!!